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Mount Everest , known locally as Sagarmatha or Qomolangma , [ note 4 ] is Earth's highest mountain above sea level , located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China—Nepal border runs across its summit point. Mount Everest attracts many climbers, including highly experienced mountaineers. There are two main climbing routes, one approaching the summit from the southeast in Nepal known as the "standard route" and the other from the north in Tibet.
While not posing substantial technical climbing challenges on the standard route, Everest presents dangers such as altitude sickness , weather, and wind, as well as hazards from avalanches and the Khumbu Icefall. As of May , people have died on Everest. Over bodies remain on the mountain and have not been removed due to the dangerous conditions. Climbers typically ascend only part of Mount Everest's elevation, as the mountain's full elevation is measured from the geoid , which approximates sea level.
The closest sea to Mount Everest's summit is the Bay of Bengal , almost km mi away. To approximate a climb of the entire height of Mount Everest, one would need to start from this coastline, a feat accomplished by Tim Macartney-Snape's team in Climbers usually begin their ascent from base camps above 5, m 16, ft.
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The amount of elevation climbed from below these camps varies. On the Tibetan side, most climbers drive directly to the North Base Camp. On the Nepalese side, climbers generally fly into Kathmandu , then Lukla , and trek to the South Base Camp , making the climb from Lukla to the summit about 6, m 19, ft in elevation gain. The first recorded efforts to reach Everest's summit were made by British mountaineers.
As Nepal did not allow foreigners to enter the country at the time, the British made several attempts on the north ridge route from the Tibetan side.
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After the first reconnaissance expedition by the British in reached 7, m 22, ft on the North Col , the expedition pushed the north ridge route up to 8, m 27, ft , marking the first time a human had climbed above 8, m 26, ft. The expedition resulted in one of the greatest mysteries on Everest to this day: George Mallory and Andrew Irvine made a final summit attempt on 8 June but never returned, sparking debate as to whether they were the first to reach the top.
Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary made the first documented ascent of Everest in , using the southeast ridge route. Norgay had reached 8, m 28, ft the previous year as a member of the Swiss expedition. The Chinese mountaineering team of Wang Fuzhou , Gonpo , and Qu Yinhua made the first reported ascent of the peak from the north ridge on 25 May The Tibetan name for Everest is Qomolangma ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ , lit.
The name was first recorded in a Chinese transcription in the Kangxi Atlas, issued during the reign of Qing Emperor Kangxi ; it first appeared in the West in as Tchoumour Lancma , on a map prepared by the French geographer D'Anville and based on Kangxi Atlas. The British geographic survey of attempted to preserve local names when possible e. However, Andrew Waugh , the British Surveyor General of India , claimed that he could not find a commonly used local name, and that his search for one had been hampered by the Nepalese and Tibetan policy of exclusion of foreigners.
Waugh argued that — because there were many local names — it would be difficult to favour one name over all others; he therefore decided that Peak XV should be named after British surveyor Sir George Everest , his predecessor as Surveyor General of India. Despite Everest's objections, Waugh's proposed name prevailed, and the Royal Geographical Society officially adopted the name "Mount Everest" in In the late 19th century, many European cartographers incorrectly believed that a native name for the mountain was Gaurishankar , a mountain between Kathmandu and Everest.
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In , the British began the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India to fix the locations, heights, and names of the world's highest mountains. Starting in southern India, the survey teams moved northward using giant theodolites , each weighing kg 1, lb and requiring 12 men to carry, to measure heights as accurately as possible. They reached the Himalayan foothills by the s, but Nepal was unwilling to allow the British to enter the country due to suspicions of their intentions.
Several requests by the surveyors to enter Nepal were denied. The British were forced to continue their observations from Terai , a region south of Nepal which is parallel to the Himalayas. Conditions in Terai were difficult because of torrential rains and malaria. Three survey officers died from malaria while two others had to retire because of failing health.
Nonetheless, in , the British continued the survey and began detailed observations of the Himalayan peaks from observation stations up to km mi distant. Weather restricted work to the last three months of the year.